[10. Sustainable
It is environmentally friendly packaging.
Packaging is sustainable if designed in a holistic way, fully balanced with the product and its ways of use, so as to optimize the overall environmental performance.
The ‘refill revolution’: refillable solutions for more sustainable cosmetics
Although with a certain delay compared to other sectors, the cosmetics industry is also responding to the major environmental crises and changes in consumption patterns, rethinking its packaging with the aim of reducing packaging waste and at the same time overcoming the now an old prejudice that beauty and personal care products are as ‘beautiful’ as they are unsustainable from an environmental point of view.
In response to regulatory changes with respect to environmental issues and the growing demand for sustainability from people, some manufacturers are focusing on the structural reduction and simplification of their packaging or on the development of new materials, with improved environmental performance. However, what is currently revolutionizing beauty and personal care products is the adoption by more and more brands of refillable packaging, in some cases even according to ‘returnable’ packaging systems.
A system based on the reusability and ‘refill’ of a packaging can be implemented according to three possible models: 1) the sale of refills that are used to refill the package once the content is finished; 2) a filling system at the point of sale using a ‘refill station’; 3) a subscription on the basis of which to periodically receive product refills.
The first model foresees that the product is sold in two versions: in addition to the main package, characterized by a resistant and durable structure so that it can be reused several times, the ‘refill’ can also be purchased separately in a packaging reduced to a minimum in terms of volumes and thicknesses, usually cheaper than the main version (if more expensive, it is because it contains a greater amount of content). When the product runs out, this eliminates the need to buy a new one.
There are many brands that have adopted the refill-based refill system that are sold separately, in addition to the main packaging: depending on the characteristics of the content, the system is based on pouches or other containers from which the product is poured, or elements to be replaced inside the packaging, in the form of pods or ‘cartridges’.
Among the companies that have adopted a reusable packaging system with pouch refills, P&G proposes for the Head & Shoulders, Herbal Essences, Aussie and Pantene products, aluminum bottles that can be filled several times by transferring the product from flexible packaging, which are lighter, less bulky and cheaper.
Other brands such as L’Occitane, Kiehl’s, HAAN, Olika, OUAI, The Handmade Soap Company, NatureLab Tokyo, Isle of Paradise, Australian Glow have also chosen the same system. Instead they opted for larger Bathing Culture and Youth to the People rigid bottle refills, to offer a greater and more affordable amount of product.
There are also numerous ‘refill’ solutions based on the use and replacement of pods or actual product ‘cartridges’ inside the packaging. This is the case, for example, with the lines of Zara Beauty, Fenty Skin, Charlotte Tilbury, Emma Lewisham, Kjaer Weis o Emma Lewisham.
Also of interest are some specific solutions, such as the cream pod refills of Yves Saint Laurent, Tata Harper, Glow Recipe, The Organic Pharmacy or Skyn Iceland;
the ‘pods’ of compact products – in some cases even customizable – of MOB, Glossier Monochrome, Victoria Beckham Beauty, Jane Iredale o Elate; the refillable lipsticks of Hourglass o Sisley Paris; the interchangeable ‘facial rollers’ of Revlon; the foundation ‘cartridges’ of‘ Danessa Myricks or sunscreen of Brush On Block; the replaceable bar deodorants of Dove, By Humankind or Helmm; Re.fil di Birchbox lip balm. And the list goes on, there are really many companies, large or small, that are adopting these solutions.
Another refill system that is also spreading in the cosmetic field is based on the use of a ‘refill station’ present at the point of sale and a line of empty containers that can be refilled several times.
It began experimenting with the model based on The Body Shop ‘refill station’, which offers refillable solutions for hair products, shower gels and liquid hand soaps in its stores.
In France, Mustela has installed a refill device for cleansing gel and COZIE – acronym for ‘Cosmétique Objectif Zéro Environmental Impact’ (cosmetics with zero environmental impact) in pharmacies – for its part, it has developed a device which, to ensure safety and hygiene of its products, maintains airtight conditions during filling and allows to print the batch number on nourishing face creams, body lotions or deodorants.
Recharging by means of a ‘refill station’ at the point of sale is actually a system that has already spread for some time in other sectors, for example in the food or home care sectors, just think of the case of Algramo (Chile), which was already discussed in this column some time ago (you can read the story here).
Finally, a further refill method is the subscription ‘refill’, with periodic delivery of products and according to a ‘returnable’ system, thus promoting the reuse of packaging, reducing waste and cutting costs.
Companies offering this service include, for example, France’s 900.care and What Matters, US Izzy, UK Wild. In the case of 900.care, the interesting aspect to highlight is that in addition to promoting the reuse and refilling of packaging, the two young entrepreneurs who developed this project offer product ‘refills’ in a solid concentrated version to be rehydrated at home with water.
Beyond the refill system adopted, it is clear that the ‘refill revolution’ is no longer just referring to a few isolated cases of independent brands destined for niche markets, but it is a constantly growing reality. It is a widespread phenomenon that is changing the entire cosmetics sector, which aligns itself with other categories that have been experimenting for some time in this direction (including, for example, food and beverages, or household and clothing cleaning products).
The field of cosmetics seems to be particularly involved in this revolution, made by increasingly ‘eco-savvy’ consumers, who are raising their expectations in terms of sustainable packaging and who are orienting their purchasing choices towards products that respond to more ethical and responsible consumption criteria, which avoid unnecessary waste and promote waste reduction.
